I know the great snow storm that wasn't didn't happen something like two months ago, but I was really excited to use my own Snow related end-of-world pun. So, Karibu the Kenyabetical-Ragsnowrok Edition!
A is for
American - Imagine my suprise to discover a couple of americans working at the mission hospital two kilometers down the road from me! There's an elderly couple and a young nurse volunteering there. They've been here since January and I have had absolutely no idea they were even here. Crazy.
Anyhow, it's been nice to meet up with americans and chat and things. It's really amazing how much you end up missing being able to talk to people in your normal accent about things you're used to talking about. Also, refrigeration and showers are nice too.
B is for
Bread - One of these days I'll get a picture up. Not yet, though, I'm afraid. But, by putting two suferias on top of each other, adding a brick spacer and a metal plate - Jiko Oven! You can cook bread on a charcoal or paraffin stove! (And if you happen to have brought a mulitmeter with thermocouple, well, you can even check the temperature. Not that you have any control, mind.)
C is for
Candy, give me- I think this is something I've mentioned before, but the use of the word "please" isn't really common in Kenya. I think it's generally understood. Still, when little kids come up to you and all they say is "Give me candy," it can get a little annoying. Years of white travelers have trained the kids and adults to swarm new mzungus asking for sweets and money.
D is for
Day in the Life - Kenyan students work hard. Very hard. They're supposed to arrive at school at 6 AM, no later that 6:45 for "Preps." That is, personal studying. Usually they have to do manual work, such as cleaning the school, during this time as well. At 7:20 comes the first class. There's no guarantee that a teacher will be there for that class, mind, but the kids are expected to keep busy regardless. Classes go till 10, at which point there is a tea break. Then classes till 1:00. Which is lunch. It's usually beans and rice for the kids. After lunch, it's class till 4, followed by games and clubs. And then studying in class from 5 to 6. Twelve hours at school. I'm told at the boarding schools the schedule is even more rigorous. Unsurprisingly, burnout is rampant. Still, I don't think I have ever seen a group of students work so hard to learn so little.
E is for
Electronics - If you had told me it would take my moving to Kenya to catch up to the 21st century, I probably would have laughed. But, here I am, and I have an internet phone, twitter, a blog, another phone, and a rather robust texting plan. It's actually cheaper and easier to get on the internet from a phone here, thanks to some pretty vicious telecom price wars. Seriously, the IT revolution in developing countries is absolutly amazing. I'd sort of seen it before in Jamaica and Guatemala, but still, wow. Also, MPesa is the bomb.
F is for
Flakey - Kenyan teachers can be... less than reliable sometimes. When I arrived at my school, I was to be the physics teacher, and there were teachers for chemisty and bio. Then the bio teacher went to college and the chemistry teacher "got typhoid" and "disappeared into Tanzania." That left me, at one week, the senior member of the science department. Woo? We've since picked up another chemistry teacher, and he seems pretty cool, so thank goodness for that. Still, we're a bit understaffed in the sciences department.
G is for
Giardia,
Again - And that's all I have to say about that.
On the other hand, Ciprofloxin's a hell of a drug.
H is for
Humanization - One of the most surprising things about the area I'm in is how 'not wild' it is. I'm not talking about development, per se - electricity is sparse, water is questionable, many people live in thatched roof cottages, and the roads are... charming - it's a matter of the effects people have had on the terrain. Most of the land has been used somehow, by grazing or farms, the deforestation is incredible (mostly for coal), and the only wild animals are donkeys and goats. Really, while one of the least developed, it's one of the least 'wild' places I've ever lived.
I is for
Italians - There is a massive Italian presence in the Karungu area. There are something like three separate Catholic missions, two mission hospitals, an AIDs orphanage, all run by Italians and all sitting right on this beautiful stretch of prime waterfront property. Well played Rome, well played. Also, a group of Italian NGO/Film makers came by and talked to the students and teachers about student rights - like not getting caned- and stuff. We'll have to see how it takes, but getting the teachers to at least talk about it was incredibly helpful!
J is for
Jaluo - Jaluo is the native language (or mother tongue) of the Luo people. Actually, very few people around here speak kiswahili, what with it being a Bantu language and jaluo being not. Many people are trying to get me to learn it, but so far the success rate is low. Still, Bear Ayina! (Hello, more or less.)
K is for
Kimchi - Besides the bread, I've had a few other culinary adventures. One that was not so successful was the kimchi. While I was saddened to not get my korean fermented cabbage fix, the mold I ended up growing was really cool!
L is for Lakeside Property - As you may have heard, I live by the lake (1 km away!). The breeze is wonderful, the sunset's gorgeous, and the fishing boats at night on the lake is like having a whole nother night sky. The lake flies are a bit of a bother though. In the day they create these clouds that get in your eyes and nose, and at night they swarm the lights and make this incredibly obnoxious buzzing noise.
M is for Maize - Maize is the number one crop here, and everyone is anxiously awaiting the arrival of the March rains so they can start planting. For now at least, the morning air is filled with the sounds of people plowing and readying the soil. There are no tractors here, and so almost all of the work is done with yoked oxen and a plowshare.
N is for Nom-Nom-Nomena - Omena is the name for the tiny little fish that everyone around here likes to eat. They're maybe about the size and flavor of anchovies or sardines. They have a strong fishy flavor, and are usually fried and eaten whole, bones, eyes and all. Not too bad, but apparently I'm one of the few americans to think so.
O is for Odiero - Odiero is the local term for 'Mzungu.' It's sort of an improvement, certainly sounds more dashing anyway. When I hear Mzungu all I can think about are dumpy old british guys in khaki shorts.
P is for Peanut Butter - Seriously, I go through this stuff at an incredible rate. Which is problematic, since there nearest place that sells it is a two hour matatu ride away (30 km) in Migori town. Migori also happens to be the only town around with a bank, so getting paid is always a bit of an adventure. On the plus side, they have ice cream!
On the other hand, fresh peanut butter may contain aflotoxin fungus, which gives you cancer. That's why I buy the processed stuff!
R is for Roadside Bike Repair - Dear "Buy America" people: You have no idea how crappy China is capable of making things. The mountain bike I picked up to cover the 7Km trip from my house to town has been nothing short of a crash educational course on bike repair. So far I've learned on the side of the road to straighten wheels, repair punctures, replace chains, fix jammed gears, and put that damn pedal back on. Seriously, it keeps falling off!
S is for Science Congress - Science Congress is a bit like a giant science fair competition between all the schools in Kenya. The idea is to give students a chance to exercise their creative and scientific juices and try to come up with some new ideas. In practice, however, teachers usually copy old projects, give them to the students to memorize, and repeat the same thing year after year. Also, there's a lot of corruption, apparently. As the science department, I was in charge. As the new guy who never did it before, I fell flat on my face. Which is ok, we can start afresh and do some interesting projects, and do them well.
T is for Temptations - "How I Wish it Would Rain." Not so that I can go outside after woman trouble, but because it's so very, very dry. I have only seen a few places drier, and none by the lake!
Everything is brown, the cows are skin and bones, and everyone looks hopefully at every cloud that floats by. Hopefully soon. Hopefully.
Incidentally, one of the big problems is that the lake is off-limits (or was until recently) due to a treaty England signed with Egypt before they left Kenya. Even then, pumping water in land is a major expense that most people here can't afford.
U is for Ugali - Once again, ugali is the staple food around here. Actually, even more so than in Loitokitok. Rice and pasta are considered 'snacks,' and the people here have no idea how americans get so big and strong without ugali. They often ask me what the "staple food" in america is; I've settle on french fries.
V is for Very Excited - The KCSE results were released earlier this week, causing mass celebration in the schools that did well. (Like, no classes for a week.) And mass soul-searching in the schools that didn't. Of course, the usual remedy for improving performance is to lengthen the school day and make the students come in on the weekends, but that's a tale for another day.
W is for World News - It's a little strange reading about american politics in the World News section of the paper. Also, Kenyan politics is full of fun! It's mostly about: corruption, corruption, ICC, corruption, constitutional crisis. With the new Constitution comnig into place, it seems that things might be on the up swing, but we shall have to see. It's a fragile process holding together a lot of tribal tension.
Y is for Yes We Can - If Obama was popular in the rest of Kenya, he's ginormous here in Luo land. (His father's family is Luo, from near Kisumu.) Pictures of him everywhere, Barack and Michelle are the most popular names for babies, he even has his own jam! (Strawberry!) Just like in America, though, people here are quite disappointed he hasn't solved all their problems yet.
Z is for Zen and the Art of Keeping out of the Way of Motorcyles - Around here, traffic laws are more like... guidelines. Keeping out of the way of motorbikes is a constant challenge; I've almost been hit a good number of times. The road situation doesn't help much, either. The cars and matatus I've ridden in have gotten stuck on rock outcroppings quite a few times. Ah well. Karibu Kenya!
